looking west, 10 miles east of Marfa, after crossing mountain |
Five o’clock in the morning, full moon high in the west over
Alpine, Texas. Twenty-five degrees-F, wind
calm. I wear every bit of warm clothing the
bike has carried all these miles, including three pairs of socks, ski mask,
sweat-band over my nose, thick gloves, jacket, rain jacket as a windbreaker. I close the motel room door and start
pedaling west—destination, Van Horn, one hundred miles.
looking east before sunrise, 10 miles east of Marfa |
There would be a breakfast stop at Marfa, after crossing a
small range of desert mountains, one-fourth of the distance to Van Horn. My fingers and toes were numb when I locked
the the bike to a post in front of Stripes convenience store. Customers looked at the strange creature, all
bundled up, in their store, stripping off layers. But Stripes has good food and a table and
coffee, and I answered some of their questions.
I stayed there long enough to get warm and for the day to warm, and for
the most gratifying thing of allto happen—wind began to rise from the southeast,
just as the forecast said.
Even less vegetation sprouts from this part of the desert than
on previous days, less objects to slow the unrelenting wind. Ininhabited only by huge ranches, unfarmed,
sand so sparsely watered and permeable that even the deep roots of mesquite keep
out.
Wind increased to a steady gale of about 20mph. That would have stopped me had it come headon.
But from behind, I rode at 20mph feeling no wind, except when it occasionally
shifted for a few minutes. I rode with
less effort than I had on a previous day at 4mph in headwind.
The miles rolled on easily.
Open space gave way occasionally to an isolated oddity. The US Air Force, Tethered Aerostat Radar
Site, whose primary mission is surveillance along the southwest border of the
United States. This helium balloon can
rise to 15,000 feet while tethered by a cable.
Valentine, Texas |
Valentine Post Office |
I came to the dying town of Valentine where 217 people still
live live, and where hundreds come on Vaslentine’s Day. They want their love notes postmarked “Valentine,
Texas.”
Miles of road like this with a pleasant tailwind. I arrived in Van Horn last evening, happy for
what I have, and happy for all the good wishes many of you have sent.
easier it is
with the wind
to pedal one hundred miles
than thirty
against it
How good and how pleasant it is to pedal 100 miles on a day like today,
through a small portion of the great open expanse of the Southwest.
Please note that I have added a link to Michael Angerman’s Map
of my journey at the top of the blog.
I was trying to follow you, but you lost me at 25 degrees. maybe okay for Mount Shasta, but I'm staying where there is coffee. even in Texas!
ReplyDeleteYes really, Dalton, 25 degrees. Alright I fudged a tad—Alpine is at 4,500’ elevation and the thermometer said 29 degrees. The pass I climbed over in morning darkness is 5,000’ elevation, so I figured it was a bit colder. Will you allow me that much poetic license? And it has been unseasonably cold for two days now. At least there was coffee in Marfa.
DeleteAh it sounds so easy but even with a tailwind it makes me tired to think of all that riding... so thank you for doing it for us, Sharon. We are so happy this 100 mile day was able to be like this, a tailwind day. And you arriving there being able to say :How good and how pleasant it is to pedal..." amazing, fortunate and good work! I like the term "isolated oddity" ... and also how bleak and ordinary the place called "Valentine" is, the poster of postmarks... and so hopefully wine and a good meal and good rest for you, we are all following and being inspired.
ReplyDeleteYes, I have all of the above here in Van Horn, even air conditioner running. It’s that warm. I have almost crossed the West Texas desert. Day after tomorrow, I’ll meet the Rio Grande River valley and a different kind of scene. Thanks for the clues as to what’s going on on fb, It’s hard for me to keep up there, and your messages help.
Deletehi what a trip incredible I see a tanka for Valentine and making I10
ReplyDeleteAfter 100 miles I would layover Good luck through urban areas
You must be one of the Tanka poets. Perhaps your Facebook name would be appropriate. Thanks for commenting.
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